Duration: 2 days
Approximate distance (Sofia is starting point): 460km round-trip
Accessibility: car recommended
Day one: Krushuna waterfalls and the cave of Devetaki
The Krushuna waterfalls – Крушунски водопади, have become quite the celebrity among Bulgarian sights in recent years. They truly are a fantastic place to visit, have a sort of a jungle-y feeling surrounding them and are very easily accessible. The hike around them is not long or difficult, albeit not wheel-chair accessible as far as I know.
To reach the waterfalls, you’ll have to enter Krushuna into your GPS systems. Once you get to the unspectacular village, just follow the line of tourists.
The walk around the waterfalls lasts about an hour at a slow pace. Imagine a small hill, along the sides of which the carst waterfalls have formed. The place has a magical atmosphere surrounding it, its emerald waters creating a white noise putting you at peace.. That is, of course, provided there’s not the usual hordes of tourists walking around or the occasional crowd of local gypsy children bathing (!!!) in the waterfalls. All part of the charm of the place, I guess 🙂
After having seen the waterfalls and their amazing micro ecosystem, I suggest heading to the Devetaki cave – Деветашка пещера, which is not far. Now, I was last there in 2013 and the place was difficult to find due to poor road signing. I hope this has now changed. If it hasn’t , trust your GPS with the task 🙂
The Devetaki cave is one of the largest in Bulgaria and is shrouded in mystery due to its secretive past. During communist times it used to be a classified military object, according to my Dad they stocked all kinds of warheads in there. In the 90-es oil and/or gas used to be stored there, the faint scent of petrol can still be sensed.
But the cave was put to use a long long time prior to the Communist regime in Bulgaria, this source claims it was firstly inhabited 70 000 years BC!
The cave was some years ago one of the sets for filming Hollywood ‘blockbuster’ starring Stallone, Schwarzenegger and so on “The Expandables 2”. The loud and bright movie set woke up the hibernating protected bat population and many of the bats perished due to lack of food in the cold winter months. Not sure the movie was worth that..
After having seen the cave, I suggest heading back to the town of Lovech, where you can get some well deserved rest and a nice meal.
Day two: Lovech
Lovech is a town in North-central Bulgaria, famous for a bridge built by one of Bulgaria’s top-notch architectural talent – Kolyu Ficheto during the National Revival times in the beginning of the 19th century. The town is not quite what it used to be during its glorious days in the communist era, but it still is nice to take a walk around its streets and enjoy the atmosphere.
The Osam river dividing the town creates an unforgettable flair. Also, make sure to walk around the Varosha architectural and historical reserve – an ethnographical reserve with old houses, an amazing place.
You can easily spend a whole day in Lovech, but if you like to incorporate another town and maybe even a night in your short trip, I suggest adding this trip to you itinerary, which includes seeing the superb town of Pleven and another stunning cave – Prohodna, which is a matching competition for the Devetaki cave.